Turn by turn guide to the Blackhawk Farms track
If you know this track then please try to start this guide. Once, someone starts then other readers should refine it to make the descriptions better. But, someone has to be first. Just click the edit button on the top of the page or the right and go.
T1 is a typical 90-degree right hander. Pick your braking point and try to be consistent there. People have a tendency to "cheat the corner" by turning in too early, which will lead to hitting some dirt on track out, or worse. Hold your line and don't turn in early.
T2 is considered a straight for most cars, despite most maps indicating that some braking or lifting might be needed. Driving under the boughs of a huge oak tree at the apex creates a sense of tranquility here, if you can ignore the possibility of hitting the tire wall in front of the trunk.
Approaching T3, you will be hard - very hard - on the brakes because you've been full throttle since leaving T1. Advanced drivers may trail brake into T3, but newer drivers would be advised to keep their braking straight. T3 is commonly taken one of two ways: a) staying about mid-track, then hitting the apex near the end of the corner, or b) double apexing. Whatever line you take, the key is to get back on the throttle as soon as possible so that you're full throttle well before the second apex.
Turn 3A (or 3D) is a very slow (typically 2nd gear) right hander that will require you to brake hard beforehand. Again, pick your braking point and be consistent.
History buffs will note that there used to be a straight after the carousel of 3 leading directly to 4. You can still see old pavement coming out from under the earth berm and tires there.
Turn 4 and 5
T4 - T5 is actually more of one large radius turn than two discrete corners. Judging from most track maps, T4 looks like a very slow corner. Taking T4 slowly is wise for those new to BHF, but some significant time can be made here by not overbraking, or by not braking at all (depending on the car). Still, T4 is slower than T5 since it is a lower radius corner as can be seen in the GPS plot. Too much speed in T4 can easily lead to a spin.
Approaching T5, you will see an access road on your right. Use this as your turn in marker. Most people turn in at the start or the middle of the road. Depending upon your gearing, you may choose to short shift before getting to T5, as this can make the corner a bit smoother overall with little (if any) time lost. You'll need to use the entire track out area if you're carrying speed.
You will exit T5 on the far right side of the track, so you'll need to bring the car back to the left to set yourself up for T6. Turn in markers are not readily apparent, so you will have to look for some type of marker. This is important to do, because this corner leads to a long straight coming up to T7. Spins near the beginning of T6 (near the access road) are common so be careful and consistent. Make sure to hit the apex on the right side of the track just after the access road.
T6A is a right hand kink, and after hitting that apex you'll be able to brake in a straight line for T7. High powered cars (e.g. over 400 hp) may need to brake before the kink since the braking zone is relatively short. Cars sometimes go off in T7 due to overly-late braking or overheated brakes.
Once through the kink, T7 is a straighforward 80 degree right-hander leading on to the main straight.
Allen Skillicorn's Guide
3rd gear corner for most cars (Viper, ZR1, etc. could use 2nd, about 50-60mph). About 90 degrees to the right. Classic late apex. Most cars can start braking around the 2 marker. Small cars with good brakes, closer to 1. The traight that precedes # 1 is about 1/4 mile in length. Street cars can get to 100-135mph on the straight. Large apex curb at the along the apex. Just brush the curb with the right side tires about 2/3 of the way down. Track out to concrete rumble strips on the left side of the track. Continue that arc to line up for turn #2
Slight left bend, 3rd to 4th gear for most cars. Many drivers don't arc smoothly out of #1 into 2, unsettling the chassis some. If it doesn't feel natural and smooth adjust your line coming out of 1. #2 should be WOT in dry conditions! Very slippery and dangerous in the wet though. Starting from the arc coming out of 1, get to the right, sweep to the left. Left side tires should skim across the rumble strip with a nice vroom vroom sound. Track out to the right side of the track, line up for the braking zone for turn #3
3rd gear, right hand carousel. You are lined up on the right side coming out of 2, so brake diagonally across the track, so you are braking with the wheels pointed straight, but also getting to the left for your turn in. Do this too severely and you will unsettle the chassis. Entry to 3 is a big passing area. Cars from behind can easily toss themselves to the inside of the braking zone (#2 flows right there). Stay to the right to block if necessary. Apex is blind at turn in. Anticipate where you turn in, right side tires should skim the apex rumble strip. Most decent handling cars can go WOT at or near apex. Straddle the line in the middle of the track, go too wide and you will get into the marbles. Vary the throttle (75-100%) to adjust the radius of the arc, do not adjust with steering. Tighter seems to be faster with cars that put down power well. Let the car drift to the left near the end of the arc, this sets you up for the chicane, and allows WOT through the chicane.
Right hander, tightest corner on the course, 2nd to 3rd gear (depends on car/gearing), 40-45 mph. Yank the car back over to the left and start braking when appropriate for the type of car. 90 degrees classic late apex. BIG curbing at apex, car will go airborne if hit square. Very important to get the apex, cambered corner. Going wide is way slower. Get on power early.
Left hand bend 40-50 feet after 3a. No time to set up for. Ideally set up just enough so you can maintain WOT out of 3a. Curb at the apex will unsettle the chassis, just barely touch it with the left side tires.
Late apex Left handler with camber helping at apex. Line up to the right. Visually there is a concrete curb on the right, don't drive over the curb, IT WILL SPIN YOU INTO THE WALL ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE CURVE. Get down to the large apex curb, barely touching it with the left side tires. Some brake or a lift is needed in all but the slowest & good handling cars. Track out to the large exit curb on the right. Use that curb accordingly. Be cautious exiting, dropping over that exit curb can remove suspension and oil pan pieces. Early apexing, missing the missing the apex, or carrying too much speed will cause an incident with the exit curb (spinning best case, ripping oil pan off slightly worse, nosing straight into wall worst case).
Fast left hander, 3rd gear, some cars 4th gear. If you are close to running out of 3rd gear, short shift into 4th before this corner. You are already on the right side after exiting 4. Stay right, delay your turn in until you reach the back gate road (actually wait until the middle of the back gate road). Many cars need a small lift or gentle braking for this corner. Very fast with big consequences for mistakes (my fav corner at BFR). Get to the apex rumble strip, track out to the right again. Never lift in fast corners, roll into the throttle when you turn in. If you only use 60% throttle (Viper), go to 60% and leave it there until passing the apex, and roll in more. If you roll in 85%... If you roll in 100% (<150hp) etc. Near track out you should be WOT, if not adjust your turn in or shock settings. A smooth turn in and settled chassis is important for carrying speed here. Great passing opportunity through 5 and into 6 for low powered cars.
3rd gear right hander. Get over to the left. Brake markers here are closer together than 1 & 7. Classic late apex, touch large apex curb. There is camber here too, going wide is slow with many marbles. Track out to large exit curbing. Cross main service road. You can use the service road in the rain, but a waste of time in the dry. Stay left setting up for the silo turn.
Turn 6a or Silo turn
WOT right bend in most cars. <300hp should be WOT, if not you're doing something wrong. Track out to exit curbing. Leads into the slightly down hill back straight. This is where sound metering is taken. If your car is above 103db, aim exhaust to the right. I am not a big fan of noise pollution, overly loud cars threaten our hobby by causing problems with neighbors. My hearing is also important to me. Rotaries and other 2 cycle engines should be banned! rant off.
Kink Before 7
Fast cars may need to brake or lift (fast means over 120mph and higher). Line through kink is dictated by where you need to be for 7. A slow car with good brakes will drive around the bend. A fast car will need to shoot straight through to facilitate braking in a straight line. Many cars need a clean way through the kink or the chassis gets unsettled, leading to lockup of the inside front tire. This lock up can cause flat spots and poor brake performance. The tarmac after the kink is basically the braking zone for 7. Btw 3 SpecMiata's can only fit through the kink if all 3 are touching.
Classic late apex right hander, 2-3 gear 45-50mph. Line up on the left, get to the large apex curb, and track out. Brake marker 4 is before the kink. A good run through 7 helps with the drag race down the front straight into 1. Pits are the right. If you need to pit, signal BEFORE you enter 7, and do not track out into the hammer lane. Gear choice and line selection may vary some. Big bore cars like GT1's tend to have 4 speed gearbox's with useable 1st gears. My experience ranges from 70hp fwd to 400hp rwd. Front, rear, and mid engine. Slicks, DOT R compounds, and street tires. I've done a couple thousand laps in various cars, and around 500 laps on motorcycles. Watch out for deer, wild turkeys, and turtles at BFR.