How to make my Viper handle better on the track?

[Stack]

Just out of curiosity, have you had any Viper experienced instructors ride with you?

[early93viper]

Originally Posted by Stack

Just out of curiosity, have you had any Viper experienced instructors ride with you?

Yes, Bill Pemberton (one of the best Viper instructors) has ridden with me.

[Sterling Doc]

Originally Posted by early93viper

It's mostly right when I get on the power. But you notice it a bit in turn in.

Example:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MNP8-L4avBY

If you have adjustable shocks, then start by softening the rear a bit. This will help rear grip during transitions. Also be gentle with the right foot unleashing that torque monster .

[JimLill]

Do you have a "build sheet" or equiv. of what you've done to your car so far?

[Stack]

Originally Posted by early93viper

Yes, Bill Pemberton (one of the best Viper instructors) has ridden with me.

OK, cool... how long did he ride with you, and what did he have to say? Were you having these issues when he was in the car with you? When was the last time he was in the car with you?

Now... watching the video, and not having driven Heartland Park before... it looks to me like you're pinching the exits. You're not opening the wheel... even when you start to get loose, you're late and abrupt when you do. Your right foot and rear tires "go" and it doesn't look like you allow the car to track out to compensate.

Realizing that some of the turn complexes warrant a center-track turn exit, I'm thinking you need to plan for that and not be so throttle happy in those sections.

[loudes13]

A set of R compound tires MAKES a world difference in these! You need tires anyway, it's the BEST money you'll ever spend.

[early93viper]

Originally Posted by JimLill

Do you have a "build sheet" or equiv. of what you've done to your car so far?

It's pretty close to stock:

40mm rear brake calipers
Intake and exhaust
EBC yellow Brake pads
short shifter

[early93viper]

Originally Posted by Stack

OK, cool... how long did he ride with you, and what did he have to say? Were you having these issues when he was in the car with you? When was the last time he was in the car with you?

Now... watching the video, and not having driven Heartland Park before... it looks to me like you're pinching the exits. You're not opening the wheel... even when you start to get loose, you're late and abrupt when you do. Your right foot and rear tires "go" and it doesn't look like you allow the car to track out to compensate.

Realizing that some of the turn complexes warrant a center-track turn exit, I'm thinking you need to plan for that and not be so throttle happy in those sections.

Here's a video of me at HPT:

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/4...f900140bed.htm

I am interested to hear your comments. But I don't think I am pinching the corners. Maybe I'm wrong?

What I am really trying to do is take a car that's prone to snap oversteer, that's prone to unpredictablity at the limit. And make it predictable and dial out the snap oversteer.

I don't think there is anything "wrong" with the car. I just want to improve on the design to make it more predictable at the limit. So I can play at the limit more often.

[Bugeater]

I think I can probably help some. I have driven a Gen 1 and know what you mean re:twitchy, and can also give you some ideas on setup...

FYI - I drive a gen II GT-1 racecar and also instruct.

First alignment - A base/conservative spec would be:

Camber: Castor: Toe:
LF = -2.4 RF = -2.2 6.5 Front = 1/16" out per corner
LR = -1.3 RR = -1.1 Rear = 1/16" in per corner

* Stagger the camber left/right only if this is a track-only vehicle, that normally runs clockwise.

* For a street/track warrior, I would suggest running 1.8 up-front and 0.8 in the rear.

* Its very important you are running 1/8 total rear toe in because under threshold braking the car is very squirrely.

* The Gen 1 I drove had the stock springs, and they absolutely SUCK. Whatever they are, double the springrate. A good street/track combo is 500/800 +/- 50 lbs, I personally run Eibachs, 900 front 1200 rear.

* If you can find a set of 1999/2000 ACR koni 2812 adjustable shocks they rock.

* Midcorner understeer on-power is huge in these cars stock. I would recommend a larger rear sway, and if/when you upgrade to adjustable shocks play with the rebound settings and stiffen the rear as well. Or increase your camber up front.

* INitial turn-in may be too much as well if you are running larger front tires (or maybe stock on a gen 1). You can play with your toe settings up-front, and can even run zero total up there if you want.

* EBC pads for the track are crap. I suggest PFC 01s for the front and PFC 97's rear. Another brand option for the Viper is the Brakeman 3. They are better than EBC's but compared to Performance friction their initial bite and fade characteristics are inferior. Similar wear on rotors tho...

Hope this helps some.

[wastntim]

I just ordered a set of three way adjustable penske's. I can't wait to get them on the car. Eibachs can be bought for about $275. They will significantly tighten up the car and will lower it by about an inch. Be careful while driving on the streets though.
Definitely do a track alignment.